When making socks....dpns are fine, there are however ...other methods. You can make socks on 2 strait needles, 2 circs, a single long circ, 4 to 6 dpns...etc. Once you find the method you like...choose the style you like.
Become an expert at that stlye...example, I can make 'no heel', anderson heels, short row heels, and traditional flap heels....but I like the short row heel...so I learned 4 different ways to do them. When I come to a pattern with a flap heel....I just change out the heel.
Do what makes you more comfortable...and then repeat it until you can do it without having to stop and think about it. Then, make yourself some socks.
Now lets talk yarn. Wool has a natural "give", they won't stretch per se...but they will give. If a pair ends up too snug...wetting them or walking around in them for a while will loosen them up a bit. Cotton...with the exception of specialized cotton yarns, such as Cascade Fixation....has no stretch or give. In fact most natural yarns, except cotton has give. Nylon is highly flexible and doesn't breathe so it's often blended with a yarn that does. Acrylic has no give or stretch what so ever....it doesn't breathe but will wick away moisture. When choosing yarns...keep these factors in mind. When I'm running low on yarn in the middle of making socks...and I'm using wool yarn...it's no big deal to make the foot of the sock an inch short...the sock will give and fit fine. I can wet the sock...stretch it and let it mold to my foot. Same scenario when using acrylic yarn....better go buy more yarn...or you will have an extremely uncomfortable, ill fitting sock.
When you make a sock...for which there is no pattern...you can either be prepared to make 3. One as a test pattern for which you write down everything you do and the other is the pair you will wear. The single sock can be a spare or a Christmas stocking....OR...you can make one, being prepared to unravel and reknit as needed....make notations...then make the other.
Weight...sport, fine, fingering...these are standard as most print patterns prove. However....there is no rule that says you can't use worsted or bulky weight yarns...in fact I have. You simply need to remember to adjust your stitch count to match foot width. Example...56 sts is good for a superfine yarn on a size 3 needle and the foot is 8 inches around and you have 7 sts to the inch. Same sock...worsted weight....you may only need 40 sts. 38 if the yarn has a lot of give. Always do your math. Save time by taking the time to test your gauge, make a swatch.
Use your own foot as a measure. Become an expert at your foot....make socks to that measure. When you make socks for others...see where ther foot is in comparison to yours. One of my favorite customers...wears the same shoe size as me. I know if I make a sock that fits me...it will fit her. I generally can tell when to start the heel without a ruler. Since I see the measure all the time just by looking.
Take your time and have fun.
That's the secret to socks.
